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Author Topic: Fitting Silicone Blue Hoses To A V6 Galaxy  (Read 6711 times)
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DaV6
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« on: December 18, 2007, 05:57:03 PM »

Like a lot of people I like blue silicone hoses in an engine bay, It has been asked before on this site if silicone hoses will fit the Galaxy, well the answer to that is yes but not directly.

No one makes silicone hoses for the Galaxy but the V6 Galaxy has the same engine as the VW Corrado and Golf as it is the VW VR6 unit, with this in mind I did a bit of research to see if the Corrado or Golf silicone hoses will fit the V6 Galaxy.

Using VW ETKA, Ford workshop manual and Samco's website I discovered that the Golf VR6 hoses do not match the Galaxy hoses BUT the VR6 Corrado ones did more or less match BUT the engine bay layout was different, only a slight technicality.

A few weeks ago I found advertised on E-Bay USA a set of Samco blue silicone hoses for a VW VR6 Corrado so knowing they may or may not fit or may need serious modifying to make them fit I ordered them at a cost of £180 and I did ask at the time if I was mad or insane well......

The answer to that is I am still mad but not insane the hoses do fit but will need modifying to make some of them fit and I am going to show you good peeps how to fit Samco Silicone blue hoses to your pride and joy as long as it is a V6 of course.

The Samco kit only comes with the coolant hoses so to complete the project and finish the engine bay off you need to order some vacuum hose and flexihose you will need 4mm bore vacuum hose x 3mt length, 11mm bore vacuum hose x 1mt length and 1 mt of 25mm bore flexi hose(for the air pump) and 2x 32mm bore metal joiners all these I got from autoperformanceonline on e-bay.

When ordering the hose kit make sure it is for the VW VR6 Corrado and not the Golf, after a few weeks they will arrive and you get a box of nice shiny hoses




Before you can fit the hoses you need to...
1) Jack up the front of the car and securely support with axle stands  NEVER WORK UNDER A CAR WHICH IS ONLY SUPPORTED ON A JACK USE AXLE STANDS WITH A MINIMUM  2 TONS WEIGHT CAPACITY
2) Remove the engine under tray,
3) Drain the coolant into a container if you want to reuse it,
4) Remove the battery,
5) Remove the large upper engine cover,
6) Remove the ignition coil and HT leads,
7) Remove all the trim around the battery and the HT lead guides,
Cool Remove all the coolant hoses (don't forget the oil cooler hoses but be carefull as the large plastic pipe one fits onto is fragile!)

The vacuum hoses can be removed one at a time when you fit the new ones this way you will know where they go back and you can use the old ones to measure the length of the new one.

OK now you have your new hoses and the old ones removed you can compare them side by side 'spot the difference time'


OLD HOSES....


NEW SILICONE HOSES....


Right now to modify the hoses that need modifying to make them fit but first here is a FGOC top tip
Before cutting the hose place a jubilee clip on the hose so the edge is level to where the cut is to be made, tighten it so it does not slip then using a snap off type stanley knife slice through the hose along the clips edge this way you get a straight edge.

TOP TIP....


Right now to modifying the hoses, the first to be done was the awkward one which is the hose from the cylinder head to the coolant hose T-piece connection point for the heater matrix.

1) OLD AND NEW CYLINDER HEAD HOSES....


As you can see in the original hose there is a housing built in for the thermal switch but the new hose does not have this housing. The problem was solved by searching through VW ETKA and finding this...



It is a T-Piece from a 1.9 TDi Sharan cooling system (Part number 4AO 819 497) then all you have to do is slice the new hose where shown in Picture 1 then insert the T-piece, tighten the clips and hey presto....

NEW MODIFIED CYLINDER HEAD HOSE....


You will notice I have moved the thermal switch to in front of the 'branch' this was to give it enough room at the rear


Next to be done was the Radiator Bottom Hose, the new hose was to short and did not reach the radiator connection point

2) OLD & NEW RADIATOR BOTTOM HOSES....


To make it fit there is two ways to do so the first is buy a 90 degree elbow and straight pipe from a Samco stockist costing approx £30 or use the original hose which is what I did. I cut the old hose in half and the new hose where shown in Picture 2 the joined the bottom half of the old hose to the new hose using a 32mm bore metal joiner to produce this..

MODIFIED RADIATOR BOTTOM HOSE....



Next one to be done was the Radiator Top Hose, now there is not a lot to be done here the problem was the connection to the radiator was facing the wrong way

3) OLD AND NEW RADIATOR TOP HOSES...


All you have to do is cut where shown in Picture 3 insert a 32mm bore metal joiner and twist the end around by approx 180 degrees and it should end up like this

MODIFIED RADIATOR TOP HOSE....



The next hose which needs modifying is the Thermostat to Coolant Run On Pump/Expansion Bottle Hose the only problem here is the end connection to the expansion bottle is to long and faces the wrong way.

4) THERMOSTAT TO COOLANT RUN ON PUMP/EXPANSION BOTTLE HOSE...


This is a simple mod all you have to do is cut the end off where shown in picture 4. I don't have an after pic sorry.

The final hose which needed modifying is the Coolant Run On Pump to Heater Matrix Hoses T-Piece. The good thing about modifying this hose is you get a free bonus.

5) COOLANT RUN ON PUMP TO T-PIECE HOSE...


All you have to do is cut where shown in Picture 5 BUT do not discard the off cut as you will find out why soon. Again sorry no after pics.

Right now you have finished modifying your new hoses it's time to fit them.

The first to be fitted was the oil cooler hoses. Unfortunately I do not have any pics of these as I fitted mine when the engine was out of the Galaxy but when fitting them be carefull of the connection stub on the big black tube as it fragile. These hoses can be fiddly to fit it's up to you if you want to fit them

The next hose to fit was the Cylinder Head Hose





Then fit the Coolant Run On Pump to T-peice Hose.


When you modified this hose you got a bonus which was the off cut which can be used to replace the hose from the heater matrix connection point to T-piece like so...



Now you can start fitting some of the vacuum hoses to the ridged pipe from the brake servo. I did this now as it is easier as you have more room

VACUUM HOSE CONNECTIONS....


From the connection point to inlet manifold you use 11mm bore Vacuum hose and for both the EGR and Air Con vacuum hoses use 4mm bore vacuum hoses. The Air Con vacuum hose goes from the connection point for approx 20" then onto another ridged pipe.

VACUUM HOSES....



OK that's done now back to the coolant hoses next fit the Thermostat To Coolant Run On Pump and the Radiator Bottom Hose make sure the Vacuum hose runs UNDER the Radiator bottom hose.

THERMOSTAT TO COOLANT RUN ON PUMP AND RADIATOR BOTTOM HOSES FITTED...



Next fit the Radiator Top Hose, if it is a tight fit and catches the battery tray just cut an inch of the end which connects to the thermostate housing. You can also twist the end which connects to the radiator to make it fit.
RADIATOR TOP HOSE FITTED...


Then the long 'tail' which comes off the top hose connects to the expansion bottle and throttle housing. When connectting to the throttle housing also connect the 'branch' from the cylinder head hose

EXPANSION BOTTLE CONNECTION......


THROTTLE HOUSING CONNECTION....



OK thats all the coolant hoses connected and it should look like this....



Now you can fit the Vacuum hoses, as already stated do them one at a time. There are the ones for the EGR valve, Fuel pressure valve by the inlet manifold (no pics sorry but look at the above pic and you see what I mean) and MAF vacuum hoses

EGR VALVE VACUUM HOSES....


AND MAF VACUUM HOSES....



When the Vacuum hoses are done you can fit the Air pump (behind the radiator) to Air Box hose using the 25mm flexi hose. The best way to fit this hose is connect directly to the air pump original hose as the flexi hose does not fit onto the air pump

AIR BOX HOSE.....


AIR BOX HOSE CONNECTION....



That's it all the hoses are now connected. When you have finished connecting all the hoses double check ALL the connection twice before filling with coolant and running the engine.
When you are 100% satisfied with everyhing and the connections are tight it's time to put everything back together again and refill the cooling system



When you have finished it should look like this









That's it job done, have a cup of coffee and admire your hard work.
If I have forgotten anything I apologise I am only human.



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« Reply #1 on: December 18, 2007, 06:45:07 PM »

 Good Job! Bravo Bravo Bravo Woo-hoo Woo-hoo Superb! Superb! Bravo Bravo Bravo Good Job! Kewl Pics

Looks amazing Dave!!! Great write up too matey!!!
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« Reply #2 on: December 18, 2007, 06:53:29 PM »

 number1  Superb!  Woo-hoo 2thumbsup

Superb Mod and great write up too!!
(true fgoc style) like the air box and engine cover too!!!
Is that a chrome spray paint that you used?
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« Reply #3 on: December 18, 2007, 07:00:48 PM »

Quote:
Sent by are we there yet ? on December 18, 2007, 06:53:29 PM
Is that a chrome spray paint that you used?

Thanks Guys

Yep steve I used Plasti Kote chrome spray and it was real bugger to use as it takes for ever to dry. I sprayed them 2 weeks ago they have been sitting in the airing cupboard since and you can still leave finger prints in the paint if you are not carefull.  Angry
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« Reply #4 on: December 18, 2007, 07:03:39 PM »

i agree dave

engine bay looks awesome,great job m8,feel proud for sure
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« Reply #5 on: December 18, 2007, 07:07:37 PM »

I agree m8! Top job, and great write up!  Wink
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« Reply #6 on: December 18, 2007, 07:19:54 PM »

Quote:
Sent by DaV6 Ghia-Xtasy on December 18, 2007, 07:00:48 PM

Thanks Guys

Yep steve I used Plasti Kote chrome spray and it was real bugger to use as it takes for ever to dry. I sprayed them 2 weeks ago they have been sitting in the airing cupboard since and you can still leave finger prints in the paint if you are not carefull.  Angry

Blimey...!!!
How many weeks does it say on the tin?(humour)lol
Looks really nice and will look nicer when its dropped into the new shell !!!!!!
Its amazing what a bit of time and good thinking can do to a motor....
Like i said top job and i can see a few more peeps doing some mods to there bays!
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« Reply #7 on: December 18, 2007, 07:25:17 PM »

nice one matey looks the part Smiley can;t wait to see it all ont he Ultima
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« Reply #8 on: December 18, 2007, 07:57:41 PM »

Dave that looks amazing matey top work. Wink

Galaxy point on its way.
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« Reply #9 on: December 18, 2007, 08:05:54 PM »

That's fantastic Dave!! Good Job!

Will look even better in the Ultima! Wink
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« Reply #10 on: December 18, 2007, 09:28:22 PM »

Fantastic write-up, I just need to find an orange version of the pipes now Smiley
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« Reply #11 on: December 18, 2007, 11:03:39 PM »

Cheers for the commets & points

It makes it all the more worth while when it appreciated.

ad3y
No problems have a look at Samco's web site and you will see they do orange coloured hoses.

Go on m8 I dare you it will so sweet and fantastic especially at one of the shows  Wink
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« Reply #12 on: December 19, 2007, 01:46:08 AM »

Looks the dogs mate, and as the others have said it'll look great in the Ultima.

Thats gotta be worth 2 gal points.

The 1st for having the balls to gamble £180 in the first place  Grin
The 2nd for an ace write up.
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best modified mk2 ford fair 09!!


« Reply #13 on: December 19, 2007, 03:30:23 AM »

that was a job well done m8!!! top job.
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« Reply #14 on: December 19, 2007, 09:31:15 AM »

Quote:
Sent by DaV6 Ghia-Xtasy on December 18, 2007, 11:03:39 PM
ad3y
No problems have a look at Samco's web site and you will see they do orange coloured hoses.

Go on m8 I dare you it will so sweet and fantastic especially at one of the shows  Wink


It's on the list of things to do to the Galaxy, first priority is to fix all the Gremlins Smiley
Hopefully I'll be able to get them on by Mid Year 2008.

Cheers,
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